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Organic

Organic is often the most easily understood and recognizable term when it comes to environmentally-conscious winemaking.  Wines can either be made with organically grown grapes or earn organic certification by the USDA.  To label a wine as "made with organically grown grapes", a minimum of 70% organic ingredients must be used, and sulfites can be added as long as the content remains below 100 parts per million. To be certified organic means that no sulfites are added besides those that naturally occur, and 95 to 100 percent of the ingredients are organic. 

A number of winemakers in Oregon’s Wine Country are committed to organic ingredients.  One who adheres to this philosophy is Evesham Wood, located in the beautiful Eola Hills outside Salem.  Winemaker and owner Russ Raney believes that small is beautiful.  In order to produce their 3,600 annual cases of high quality wine,  there is minimal intervention in the winemaking process, preserving texture and flavor complexity.

Raney takes great care with every inch of the Evesham Wood vineyard.  To keep the wine as unadulterated as possible, sawdust is used as a mulch instead of harsh sprays to suppress weeds among young vines, and a hydraulic grape hoe is used to control weeds as the vines age. He also chooses not to irrigate, which not only conserves water, but also forces the plants to grow deeper roots and increases the chances that the wine itself will be purer and more true to its origins.

It’s not only wine aficionados that benefit from Evesham Wood’s organic and natural approach to winemaking, but also resident bluebirds. Noticing that their bluebird population was diminishing, Raney installed 12 bird houses throughout the vineyard and removed toxic chemicals from their pest management program to protect the birds' habitat.  Now, nesting pairs of bluebirds and swallows make a yearly homecoming to Evesham Wood.

Biodynamics

Bio what? Many haven’t heard of biodynamics, and some who have are skeptical at the often-perceived “woo woo” nature of these practices.  Rain water from a buried cow horn? Cosmic rhythms? While this may sound out there to some, to others it simply tastes like fabulous wine. Most Oregon winemakers don’t go as far as dancing around a full moon for good weather, but many do utilize the core principles found in biodynamics. 

One of Oregon Wine Country’s leaders in the growing biodynamic trend is Bergstrom Winery, located in Newberg.  At Bergstrom, the philosophy behind winemaker Josh Bergstrom’s approach is that everything they do in the vineyards, on the farms and in the winery has an effect on the wine’s taste, the quality of life and the vitality of the land.  Those who drink Bergstrom’s wine can appreciate this credo with just one delicious sip.

In following the biodynamic philosophy, Bergstrom uses more than 400 tons of local, organic compost each year to create better and healthier soils. Because he wants to limit the amount of toxins that invade the soil - and in turn the wine itself - fungicides, herbicides, insecticides and pesticides have no place in Bergstrom’s vineyards. Instead, the team at Bergstrom grows their own medicinal herbs and creates natural sprays to protect the vines from disease and other outside influences which threaten their health and vitality. Bergstrom also follows a lunar and solar calendar, timing the winery’s farming operations with the moon’s control of sap flow.  This intricate process helps determine when conditions are the most favorable for harvesting.

There is a distinct difference between traditional and biodynamic winemaking, but Bergstrom believes the efforts are worth it. He points out that many wine enthusiasts don’t often consider the actual winemaking process or the fact that traces of chemicals are likely contained.  But for those who do, choosing an organically or biodynamically produced wine means no herbicides or fungicides – just the purity of the fruit itself. Using a holistic approach in their winemaking, Bergstrom has noticed more “freshness, vibrancy and unique identity” in the wines they produce biodynamically versus those farmed using traditional methods. 

Bergstrom expects that more of Oregon’s winemakers will embrace a sustainable, or “green,” approach to winemaking in the future, once they see the benefits in the marketplace and the connection it creates between them and their consumers.

Salmon-Safe, LIVE and more

When most people think about salmon and wine, they are usually only concerned with whether to order white or red with their entree.  However, a much more important pairing is happening with salmon and winemakers in the Willamette Valley.  Local vineyards are taking proactive steps to ensure the future of native salmon habitat through Salmon-Safe practices.

Salmon-Safe works in partnership with organic standards leader Oregon Tilth and Low Input Viticulture and Enology (LIVE) – a nonprofit organization that provides education and certification for vineyards interested in using sustainable viticulture practices to maintain ecosystem stability and biological diversity. The focus of this partnership is to ensure that participating local vineyards keep salmon waterways free and clear by planting trees along streams to prevent erosion, growing cover crops for run-off control, and using natural means to control pests and weeds.  Vineyards that meet these rigorous standards earn certification and the honor of using the Salmon-Safe label.  These practices help ensure the future of salmon habitat for generations to come.
 
Just as Sokol Blosser was one of the pioneers of Oregon’s wine industry back in the ‘70s, they have continued their tradition of being trail blazers in the sustainable approach to winemaking. For a number of years, Sokol Blosser has been committed to environmentally friendly practices in the vineyard – receiving USDA organic certification, being certified “green” by LIVE and Salmon-Safe, and running their tractors on 50% biodiesel. In December 2002, Sokol Blosser became the nation's first winery to earn the prestigious LEED 2.0 Silver Level Certification from the US Green Building Council. One of the unique aspects of Sokol Blosser’s new cellar is a “living roof” created with wildflowers. Always looking for ways to protect their natural environment and replenish used resources, they also recently installed a 25kW solar panel system which generates enough energy to cover approximately one third of the winery’s needs.  Visitors to Sokol Blosser can revel in the natural beauty of the winery and vineyard while relishing the pure, delicious taste of these eco-friendly wines.

There’s no doubt about it – from green building to biodynamics – the Willamette Valley is at the epicenter of ecotourism. More than a third of the Willamette Valley’s 250+ wineries currently engage in either organic, biodynamic, Salmon Safe or LIVE certified wine approaches, with more joining daily.  A visit to any of the wineries that employ these practices is sure to demonstrate the passion of the winemakers – not only to creating exceptionally good wine, but also to the quality and health of the land.  Come see for yourself!


All Photos © 2007 Andrea Johnson Photography



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