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Organic
Organic is often the most easily understood and recognizable
term when it comes to environmentally-conscious winemaking. Wines
can either be made with organically grown grapes or earn organic certification
by the USDA. To label a wine as "made with organically grown
grapes", a minimum of 70% organic ingredients must be used, and
sulfites can be added as long as the content remains below 100 parts
per million. To be certified organic means that no sulfites are added
besides those that naturally occur, and 95 to 100 percent of the ingredients
are organic.
A number of winemakers in Oregon’s Wine Country are committed
to organic ingredients. One who adheres to this philosophy is Evesham
Wood, located in the beautiful Eola Hills outside Salem. Winemaker
and owner Russ Raney believes that small is beautiful. In order
to produce their 3,600 annual cases of high quality wine, there
is minimal intervention in the winemaking process, preserving texture
and flavor complexity.
Raney takes great care with every inch of the Evesham Wood vineyard. To
keep the wine as unadulterated as possible, sawdust is used as a mulch
instead of harsh sprays to suppress weeds among young vines, and a hydraulic
grape hoe is used to control weeds as the vines age. He also chooses
not to irrigate, which not only conserves water, but also forces the
plants to grow deeper roots and increases the chances that the wine itself
will be purer and more true to its origins.
It’s not only wine aficionados that benefit from Evesham Wood’s
organic and natural approach to winemaking, but also resident bluebirds.
Noticing that their bluebird population was diminishing, Raney installed
12 bird houses throughout the vineyard and removed toxic chemicals from
their pest management program to protect the birds' habitat. Now,
nesting pairs of bluebirds and swallows make a yearly homecoming to Evesham
Wood.
Biodynamics
Bio what? Many haven’t heard of biodynamics, and some who have
are skeptical at the often-perceived “woo woo” nature of
these practices. Rain water from a buried cow horn? Cosmic rhythms?
While this may sound out there to some, to others it simply tastes like
fabulous wine. Most Oregon winemakers don’t go as far as dancing
around a full moon for good weather, but many do utilize the core principles
found in biodynamics.
One of Oregon Wine Country’s leaders in the growing biodynamic
trend is
Bergstrom Winery,
located in Newberg. At Bergstrom, the philosophy behind winemaker
Josh Bergstrom’s approach is that everything they do in the vineyards,
on the farms and in the winery has an effect on the wine’s taste,
the quality of life and the vitality of the land. Those who drink
Bergstrom’s wine can appreciate this credo with just one delicious
sip.
In following the biodynamic philosophy, Bergstrom uses more than
400 tons of local, organic compost each year to create better and healthier
soils. Because he wants to limit the amount of toxins that invade the
soil - and in turn the wine itself - fungicides, herbicides, insecticides
and pesticides have no place in Bergstrom’s vineyards. Instead,
the team at Bergstrom grows their own medicinal herbs and creates natural
sprays to protect the vines from disease and other outside influences
which threaten their health and vitality. Bergstrom also follows a lunar
and solar calendar, timing the winery’s farming operations with
the moon’s control of sap flow. This intricate process helps
determine when conditions are the most favorable for harvesting.
There is a distinct difference between traditional and biodynamic
winemaking, but Bergstrom believes the efforts are worth it. He points
out that many wine enthusiasts don’t often consider the actual
winemaking process or the fact that traces of chemicals are likely contained. But
for those who do, choosing an organically or biodynamically produced
wine means no herbicides or fungicides – just the purity of the
fruit itself. Using a holistic approach in their winemaking, Bergstrom
has noticed more “freshness, vibrancy and unique identity” in
the wines they produce biodynamically versus those farmed using traditional
methods.
Bergstrom expects that more of Oregon’s winemakers will embrace
a sustainable, or “green,” approach to winemaking in the
future, once they see the benefits in the marketplace and the connection
it creates between them and their consumers.
Salmon-Safe, LIVE and more
When most people think about salmon and wine, they are usually only
concerned with whether to order white or red with their entree. However,
a much more important pairing is happening with salmon and winemakers
in the Willamette Valley. Local vineyards are taking proactive
steps to ensure the future of native salmon habitat through Salmon-Safe practices.
Salmon-Safe works in partnership with organic standards leader Oregon
Tilth and
Low Input Viticulture and
Enology (LIVE) – a nonprofit organization that provides education
and certification for vineyards interested in using sustainable viticulture
practices to maintain ecosystem stability and biological diversity. The
focus of this partnership is to ensure that participating local vineyards
keep salmon waterways free and clear by planting trees along streams
to prevent erosion, growing cover crops for run-off control, and using
natural means to control pests and weeds. Vineyards that meet these
rigorous standards earn certification and the honor of using the Salmon-Safe
label. These practices help ensure the future of salmon habitat
for generations to come.
Just as
Sokol Blosser was
one of the pioneers of Oregon’s wine industry back in the ‘70s,
they have continued their tradition of being trail blazers in the sustainable
approach to winemaking. For a number of years, Sokol Blosser has been
committed to environmentally friendly practices in the vineyard – receiving
USDA organic certification, being certified “green” by LIVE
and Salmon-Safe, and running their tractors on 50% biodiesel. In December
2002, Sokol Blosser became the nation's first winery to earn the prestigious
LEED 2.0 Silver Level Certification from the
US
Green Building Council. One of the unique aspects of Sokol Blosser’s
new cellar is a “living roof” created with wildflowers. Always
looking for ways to protect their natural environment and replenish used
resources, they also recently installed a 25kW solar panel system which
generates enough energy to cover approximately one third of the winery’s
needs. Visitors to Sokol Blosser can revel in the natural beauty
of the winery and vineyard while relishing the pure, delicious taste
of these eco-friendly wines.
There’s no doubt about it – from green building to biodynamics – the
Willamette Valley is at the epicenter of ecotourism. More than a third
of the Willamette Valley’s 250+ wineries currently engage in either
organic, biodynamic, Salmon Safe or LIVE certified wine approaches, with
more joining daily. A visit to any of the wineries that employ
these practices is sure to demonstrate the passion of the winemakers – not
only to creating exceptionally good wine, but also to the quality and
health of the land. Come see for yourself!